Frequently Asked Questions

[sections collapse=”always”] [section title=”Are these made in China/Indonesia/anywhere else in the world?”]

Nope! We take our American-owned and operated family business seriously and with pride. Each and every batch of our paints is hand-mixed and hand-poured in the Great State of Oklahoma!

[/section] [section title=”Do I HAVE to use both base coat colors?/ Are both base coat colors the same?”]

While it is VERY important to use two thin but full coats of Fashenhues white or cream base coat underneath all Fashenhues translucents, you may use either two coats of white or two coats of cream, or one cream and one white (our preference).

The main reason for this preference is that the cream shows up nicely on the white bisque, and then the white base shows nicely on the cream coat, making it easier to see what has already been covered and what still needs to be covered. It simply makes it a little easier to be sure you haven’t missed spots. Once dry, there will only be a “sheen” with no shiny areas. It’s okay to see a glint of cream through the white. Just be sure you have at least 2 coats of coverage so that when translucent colors are applied, they are more maneuverable, and will not soak into the bisque.

Be careful not to use too much base coat so as to fill all the crevices you will use for the antiquing process.

[/section] [section title=”Can’t I use any white paint as base coat/ Why do I need to use base coat?”]

Any white paint will NOT act the same way! When bisque is fired, it will leave tiny pores in the piece. This permits glazes to “stick to the piece.” When using stains, pores are not a good thing. Quite the opposite. If stain is applied directly onto untreated bisque, the stain will seep into these pores and will not be able to “move” in order to achieve the special effects stains are created for. Two coats of base coat are necessary to completely close all the pores.

[/section] [section title=”How will I know what the color will look like?”]

One of our favorite suggestions is to have a flat bisque surface available at all times with which to test any of your colors you may not be familiar with. Colors, when wiped back, may look very different than when applied. This is a great reason to save a broken piece of bisque, that otherwise would go into the trash.

[/section] [section title=”Aack!! It’s too dark!!”]

Either with the antiquing color or the translucents on top… use a baby wipe, antiquing solution or simply wipe or pat back with a piece of t-shirt (our favorite) or VIVA paper towels (they shed less) to get the desired effect.

[/section] [section title=”I don’t like the way this turned out at all!”]

Simply grab a handy dandy baby wipe, wipe it off and start back over- Easy peasey and super forgiving!;-) But- we do recommend sleeping on it (let it sit overnight, don’t sleep on the piece itself- that would just be uncomfortable ;-). Things almost always look better in the light of a new morning, and we are always our own worst critics!

[/section] [section title=”My skin tones look blotchy/streaky.”]

Try adding a drop or two of Blending Media to your skin tone on a pallet. That should help the color come out more smoothly. Keep in mind, it will take a little longer to dry that way.

[/section] [section title=”Help! My Paints are too thick!”]

You can rejuvenate a color that has dried or gotten thick in its bottle by putting ONE DROP of blending media into the jar and stirring. If it is still too thick, add water, one drop at a time. Continue to add with a ratio of 1 drop Blending Media to 3-5 drops water, stirring until the desired consistency has been reached.

[/section] [section title=”Yuck! There is product on my brush. Now what?”]

Translucents are oil based, but wash with water, and should be able to wash nicely off of brushes.

Gloss Glaze is water soluble, and should wash off with just soap and water. This being said, do not let your brushes dry with this glaze on them. If that happens, you have a very nice poker;-)

[/section] [section title=”I’m getting fingerprints all over….what can I do?”]

My favorite way to help stop this is to gently wrap the bisque with a clean piece of t-shirt and use that to hold while painting.

[/section] [section title=”Can I use more than brown to antique?”]

Any translucent color may be used to antique. The following colors are most popular because they are neutral: S-2 Mocha, S-9 Gray, S-17 Black, S-28 Brown, S-23 Mediterranean, and S-35 Cocoa. .

You can also use multiple colors on different parts of your project. An example might be a piece where S-42 Morning Glory might be great for your sky, but with logs and/or rocks at the bottom, you may wish to use S-28 Black-Brown.

We also recommend using a stiff bristled brush. The firm bristles do a better job getting into the deep crevices of the pieces

[/section] [section title=”Can I mix colors?”]

Yes! Any of the translucent colors can be used to create your own custom colors.

Additionally, we are always looking for new color ideas, so feel free to pass on color suggestions!

[/section] [section title=”Should I spray in between colors?”]

An option is to “set” each color with a light coat of Matte Spray to minimize the possibility of removing other colors from adjacent areas. (If you scrub hard enough, you can remove any color, sprayed or not.) Be sure to spray several coats thoroughly after the entire piece is finished.

[/section] [section title=”Can’t I use AS-1 (Antiquing solution) to thin out or rejuvenate a color?”]

Please Don’t! This will ruin your colors. If you are trying to rejuvenate a color, we recommend using a one drop of Blending Media to three drops of water ratio for the process.

[/section] [section title=”I don’t plan on putting my piece outside, do I need to spray it?/Can I put my piece outside?”]

Every piece painted with Fashenhues Translucents should be sprayed with 2-3 light coats of sealer spray to “set” the colors. If the piece is going outside, 4-5 light coats are recommended.

[/section] [section title=”Can I use these stains on greenware?/Can I fire these stains?/ Do I need to fire these stains?”]

Please don’t. These products are not made to be fired and would just fire away, if not cause a fire in your kiln. That is one of our favorite things about these products. When you get your bisque looking how you would like it, then you are done! No guessing about how it will look after firing!

[/section] [/sections]

Still have questions?  Let us know!

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